As I mentioned before, in Turkey we had to purchase all drinking water and use it to brush teeth etc. It only costs 2 Turkish lire for a 5 litre bottle at the shop over the road from our Istanbul Hotel, yet a 500ml bottle is 1.75lire. Buying it in restaurants (and if you want to drink water you have to buy it EVERYWHERE) it can cost as much as 4lire for a 500ml bottle, and 6lire for the 1.5litre bottle. (One Aussie dollar is worth 1.62 Turkish Lire or thereabouts.)
One thing I forgot to mention last time was about the Packs we got at The Gallipoli Service. EVERYONE who attended was issued with a cotton carry bag that had Gallipoli and Gelibolu (which is the Turkish name) and a motif made up of the Gallipoli Rose and a sprig of Rosemary. Inside, were two books setting out the order of service for Dawn Service, Lone Pine (Aussies) , Chunuk Bear (Kiwi’s) and the Turkish one, one in English and the other in Turkish. Plus another with the history of the campaign. Both had lots of photo’s of the campaign and people who fought there. There was a large plastic poncho, a small brooch of motif of the Gallipoli Rose and Rosemary sprig, a very warm beanie with the name and motif printed on it, a plastic rubbish bag, and a postcard showing the last photo taken of one of the servicemen who were killed, with his family just before he embarked. We all made very good use of the beanie that morning and several days since and the poncho has come in handy since then. (Mind you though, several times when we could have used it, it had been left safely in the bus or was in the luggage compartment!!! ) All of it will be a special memento for me and I would suggest many others as well, if the way they were being carefully carried and stowed in backpacks is any indication.
On the morning of 26th April we had an early start and drove first to Ephesus which is the best preserved ancient city in Asia Minor. It was amazing to see the skills that these people had long before AD. It was also amazing to see what the archaeologists have been able to excavate and reconstruct. In the theatre which had a capacity of 25 thousand we grouped ourselves together near where the stage would have been, and sang “I still call Australia Home’. It went over very well with all the Aussies that were about in other tour groups, but even people from other countries applauded and took photos and video’d it. The acoustics are pretty amazing let me tell you. It was pretty awesome to sing there when you think that this is not only where Roman dramas were performed, it is where St Paul preached!
We then went on to witness sunset over the white calcium pools at Pamukkale. This was bloody awe inspiring and I got a couple of great photo’s. It is amazing to see this huge hill of white calcium, with warm mineral waters cascading down the hillside. No wonder the Romans built such a large spa city there – the remains of which can still be seen. There is still a big industry in the area with people coming to seek the healing properties of these thermal waters. We were able to share a glass of wine at the top watching the last rays of the sun play over it and the lights from the city and villages below light up the night sky. It was pretty special let me tell you. In the end we were the last to leave the area and were escorted out by the security guards who check to see everyone has left. (At all these places they count you in and count you out.)
The Hotel we were booked into here was very nice – the nicest so far by a long way. We even had a jug in our room and tea and coffee making facilities. This is the first time we have had that, so we all enjoyed it immensely and made the most of it. The bathrooms were a challenge for us though – well the ones that are sharing with someone other than their spouse or partner. There was a clear glass panel between the bedroom and the bathroom. There was a sliding frosted glass door that slid between the shower and toilet, so if you were using either of them you were fine, but otherwise we had to be on our best behaviour and turn our heads to the wall when the other had their shower.
Another long days travel – during which time we always do some singing I might tell you, and have lots of fun as well. At Konya we visited the Mevlana Museum. This is where many of the Whirling Dervish were originally based and is devoted to them and their beliefs. I did not go through the main area but sat outside and had a small boy in a stroller take a liking to me. I ended up having a nice chat with his Mum while we waited – her for her husband who is on leave from the army and they were there with his family, and me for the rest of the tour group. There were several other locals who came by and interacted with us as well. I have found the Turkish people very friendly and helpful overall - especially once they find out you are Australian.
We were late getting to our Hotel at Cappadocia, so had a quick meal before heading for the ancient caravan camping site nearby where there is a demonstration of the Whirling Dervishes. (They had roast chicken and baked potatoes and all of us would have liked more time to savour it and maybe go back for seconds.) This is a true cultural event and was fascinating to see, but most of us were so tired after several BIG days, we battled to stay awake as the music and slow swirling movements proved to be almost hypnotic….. The Hotel at Cappadocia was an “upgrade’ as the one we had originally been booked into had not finished it ‘refurbishment’ in time for our tour. It was quite lovely – but we did not get our jugs and tea making facilities like we’d had the night before.
Next morning was an early start again for the balloon ride over the amazing landscape of towering mushroomed rock formations known as ‘fairy chimneys’ and cone shaped troglodyte structures that have been made into dwellings over many centuries. This was my 13th balloon ride – but for many it was their first, so they were totally ‘blown away’ by the experience. We had the best pilot I’ve ever flown with I reckon. He was amazing and we got to see so many of the formations ‘up close and personal’ without actually hitting any of them. I got some great photo’s and video footage – even though I was at the back of the basket for much of the trip. (This was my choice as the other people in my section of the basket were all flying for the first time and absolutely overawed by it all and I wanted them to have the best vantage points.) It is amazing to think that people have been carving into them and making homes and churches out of them for thousands of years. Mostly they are not used these days, but there are still a few occupied. This “moonscape’ was used in the second of the (original) Star Wars movies, so we all reckon we want to see the movie again now after having been there to see it for ourselves. Then at the end the pilot landed the balloon perfectly onto the trailer, so the crew did not have to load it. I have to admit I needed a lot of help getting in and out of the basket, especially as my right arm is still not working properly and my cracked ribs reminded me they were still there, but I don’t care – it was worth it. When you fly in Australia you get a full champagne breakfast, in Cappodocia we got a glass of champagne only.
We were late back for breakfast so most of the others grabbed something to eat on the run or missed it completely. I had already decided to take the rest of the day ‘off’ from the tour that day, as I felt I needed a quiet day to try to deal with some of the health issues I was by then experiencing – due to eating food I should not. This meant I was able to have a leisurely breakfast, and enjoyed it. I spent half the day with my feet up, so they returned to a more normal size, and caught up on a lot of sleep. For lunch I went down to the bar, and was able to order a sirloin steak. This was a real treat as all the meat we have had to date has been minced. When it came it was not exactly shoe sole standard, but had been cooked to within an inch of its life (as it seems is all meat in this country) – so my request for “medium rare” had obviously not been understood. Still it came with some beautiful crunchy chips, a grilled chilli and some grilled tomato, rice and one lettuce leaf. I enjoyed every mouthful I must tell you. I missed the carpet and jewellery markets – which not being much of a shopper did not worry me at all. That night the group went to a ‘Turkish Cultural Night” which they all enjoyed, especially the belly dancers.
The next day we were able to have a bit of a sleep in before leaving for Ankara. At Ankara we were able to visit the memorial to Aturturk. That was amazing to see. The Turkish people absolutely idolise the man – and with good reason when you see what he changed for them – all for the better. They did not even have surnames until 1934, so tracing family lineage was virtually impossible past a couple of generations. He made the famous speech saying how our sons (dead soldiers) now slept in a friendly country. I am sure that that is one of the reasons relations are so good between the Anzacs and the Turks and why our commemoration of Anzac Day is able to go ahead in the manner that it does. The list of reforms he initiated is long and detailed and covers so many different fields. If only there were more politicians like him is what I say. He died at 57 leaving no children.
I have been amazed by the changing scenery as we have travelled. We have seen snow covered mountains, rich fertile paddocks and everything in between. Several of the group are farmers – or retired farmers- so the rest of us get a running commentary on the quality of the soil, the crops, and the farming methods and equipment as we go. There are very few fences just a row of stones or a line of uncut grass – usually in flower at this time of the year - between paddocks and farms. Almost all the sheep and goats have had a shepherd or two trailing them along and often the cows as well. We have seen several gypsy camps, and many people still drive horse and carts of all size and shape. Then they have these “put puts” as they call them. Virtually a high backed trailer that they have put a motor into and a plank seat and steering wheel at the front. They are not registered and cannot be driven on the main roads but are often seen on the side roads – usually with lots of people sitting in the back. While many of the cities have modern buildings, most of the farming villages are very old and in bad condition with little maintenance having been done. Ankara is only about 50 years old and only had 6 million inhabitants so most of the buildings there are relatively modern. Whereas the other towns like Istanbul and Cappadoccia have a mixture of old and run down and ultra modern – often side by side. They ALL have an amazing array on their roof though of solar hot water systems and TV dishes. Even when the rafters are sagging and roofing tiles are missing they are all there. They obviously don’t have Body Corporate Committees to deal with…!!!
We went past the area that was devastated by the earthquake in 1999 – some may recall the utter devastation. It is painful even now to see some old houses that were left untouched and all around them is waste ground (sometimes acres of it) where all their neighbours homes (and often the neighbours) were destroyed. They are slowly starting to rebuild, but further up the hill, and all the new buildings have been designed to withstand a category 9 earthquake.
I must also mention the flowers. They are everywhere. Loads of tulips and pansies especially, in well tendered beds, around the towns and cities. In the wild there were poppies everywhere and the little wild rose that has now been known as the Gallipoli Rose, and masses of other flowers of all colours. Then of course so many of the trees are in bloom as well, it being spring. It means that it has been very picturesque throughout the country. Also, there are acacia’s everywhere. They were brought in from Australia in the 50’s and 60’s to help dry up the swamps and kill off the malaria which was rampant at the time. They fit into the landscape well and obviously have adapted well to the country.
All the long distance roads we have travelled on were pretty good – excellent by Queensland standards actually. Much of it was dual lane and split, so we were seldom held up with slow traffic. Most of the cars in the cities are modern, but in the country I think that many are left from the War! You seldom see one ‘blowing smoke’ though as there is a huge fine for that apparently. Also fuel is around 3.50 to 4 lire per litre. At the current exchange rate of 1.62 that would make it over $2 per litre.
On Saturday we returned to Istanbul, where I write this. Sunday morning several of the group returned to Australia. Although the plane did not leave till 1.30pm they had to be picked up at 6.30am as it is labour day and big celebrations were being held near here and the city area was in lock down from 7am. It has been so quiet without hundreds of buses and cars, and hardly and pedestrians in the street. We were advised not to leave our hotel today (which suited me okay) as they were expecting trouble. You should see the equipment they have brought in to deal with it, including these huge trucks with water canon on the back, and blades at the front for clearing barricades. We can hear the broadcast from the square so must be quite close.
Last night we went to a Turkish restaurant for a farewell dinner together. Some local musicians came by to entertain us. They played cheap (traditional) instruments quite badly, but you have to give them 10 out of 10 for enthusiasm so it added to the atmosphere. We then had a ten minute walk to where the bus was due to pick us up. We ended up being there a good half hour, as the traffic was just so thick. You have never seen anything like it. Here we are at 11pm with 4 lanes of traffic going all directions with lots of blaring of horns and ‘near misses’ including with pedestrians who just seem to stroll off across the road dodging cars as they go – at whim! Some of our party nearly had a heart attack just watching it!
That reminds me of a couple of incidents we had with the coach. The driver we had was amazing. It was astounding how he got it into half the places he did. A couple of times he was having trouble turning into a narrow street because the cars were parked on both sides of the street and right up to the corner. Each time total strangers just came off the footpath and gave directions to the driver so he could manoeuvre around the corner. Then we were in the middle of busy Ankara when we were unable to access a side street because a couple of large trucks parked opposite one another meant the space between them was not wide enough for the bus, so, with the help of a couple of people who came in from off the footpath we backed at least 250m up this main street so we could turn into the street before the one we wanted. No blaring of horns or graphic sign language from any of the vehicles affected by our manoeuvres. We simply backed up then drove off into the side street. There is NO WAY that could happen in any of our Aussie cities (even Cairns) as smoothly as this did. When we were clear we all gave a wave to the men who had helped – including walking behind the bus as we backed up and waving the vehicles to either side as we backed – and they and we went on our respective ways.
Colin asked us that day what had been our number one highlight here in Turkey. For most of us, narrowing it down to just one was not easy as there were so many special moments. For quite a few it was the balloon ride, others the calcium hill of Pamukkale and /or the sunset there. One said it was having a police escort the bus the wrong way down the one way road at Gallipoli after the Lone Pine Service (I think I mentioned that last week). Quite a number said hearing the waves break on the shore while sitting – chilled- in the dark waiting for the Dawn Service to commence, while for others it was being able to walk on the beach at Anzac Cove, or visit the grave sites, or sing inside the Lone Pine Memorial. For myself and one other, it was being able to lay a wreath at Lone Pine as part of the service there.
On Sunday, I came down with an ear infection and we had to call a Doctor who prescribed antibiotics, ear drops, nasal spray and pain killers.
Next time I will be able to tell you about Spain. Cheers, Meg