Norfolk Island - Food Glorious Food

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Travel

Our accommodation package included breakfast, but we needed to fend for ourselves for the rest of the day. (Mind you we did not usually need much for lunch if we had partaken of the buffet at breakfast!!!) That meant we could try many of the eating places that are on Norfolk Island. They vary in atmosphere, layout, type of food,  - some have views, and many don’t, but one thing is certain, it is all served with lots of enthusiasm.  I don’t think we had a bad meal, but some were more memorable than others. Most made a point of stating that they used local produce “when available”.

I was pleased to find that when you ordered salad or vegetables – it was all beautifully fresh - because it is all grown locally no doubt. I did not see any sign of the “mixed veg” that is common in most places these days. I am allergic to carrot which is always in the mix, so often they can not offer me anything else, but every place we ate on Norfolk Island said they cooked the veg as it was ordered and separately so it was no problem for them to cook for me just those vegies I can eat. I do not remember the last time I travelled and was able to have vegetables with dinner every night. I really enjoyed it and appreciated the efforts of the chefs who made it possible. 

We were advised to “always book” by our receptionist, but this is made very easy at many of the places as they leave a book out the front with a copy of the menu. You drive up, check out the menu and then write your name, contact details how many in the party and what time you will be coming – and often there are booking sheets for several days so you can book ahead. HOWEVER, the nominated times on the form start at 5.30pm and I did not see any that allowed a booking after 7.30pm. 

Before I had even left Cairns I had been told to try Barney Duffy's Charcoal Grill by my cousin who was there recently. She said the meals were great - steaks were melt in the mouth and she loved that you could have a baked potato with sour cream instead of the perenial chips. Unfortunately we ran out of nights. This was one place she warned me we would need to book.

For the RSL, Leagues and Bowls Clubs it is simply a matter of just turning up. They have very good food at very reasonable prices.  One of the Resorts has a choice of A-La –Carte at menu prices,  or a set menu 3course dinner for $19.  We heard excellent report on that but never did get there ourselves. The RSL had live music both nights we ate there – talented locals with good voices.  It is so lovely to be entertained with live music when you dine out I always think – but you seldom see it any more. I also had the nicest steak in a long time at the RSL – a NZ rib fillet. It was so nice I went back for another a few days later and it was just as good.

The main local fish is Trumpeter. I had it a couple of times and loved it. I also noted that one day many of the places had signs out saying “No Fish Today” when it had obviously been too rough for any of the boats to get out. A couple of days later the same Boards declared “Fresh Trumpeter tonight”. Scallops must have been plentiful the second week we were there, as they turned up on all the menus’ for the last few days of our stay. They were not particularly large but very sweet and juicy. They are a particular favourite of mine so I was very pleased to be offered them in and with practically everything on the menu.

I did not think to take photo’s of any of our meals, but I do have a photo of a couple of our favourite places, so you will have to make do with them. One place that caught my eye but we never did get to check it out was the “Fish and Chook” place. It seemed to be a Take away and if the number of cars parked out the front is anything to go by does a good meal. I am not sure if the “Chooks” are the local catch as well as the fish.

Our first and most frequented snack spot - Rumours, beside the Mall.
Rumours and the resident chook you were asked not to feed.

There are two chocolate shops on the Island – both making their own chocolates I am told. I am not really “in” to chocolate so did not go to either but those who did raved about them. They are also, I am told, the only 2 shops on the island that are air-conditioned. No doubt that makes them doubly popular on a hot day. Some people were having gift packs made up for them to take home on the plane. That is something a bit different. Hope they went through Customs Okay. (I didn’t think to ask I have to admit.)

The nearest thing to “Night life” that I could find was the Jolly Roger Bar and Restaurant which has live music and “fab food” according to some I spoke to.  It is done up to represent an old Pirate Ship. The week we were there it had a Special artist and was booked out well ahead of time. They advertise they are open Tuesday to Sunday till late, - but what time that is I can not tell you. Having said that, one night when we were coming past about 9pm they seemed to be all spilling out of it then – but maybe that was just a tour bus group.

As mentioned in the First Impressions blog we found Rumours on the first day and returned there several times. Another favourite was Hilli restaurant – which is beside Cyclorama and the Queen Victoria Gardens can be accessed from there. A great place for a “ smoko” and we had dinner there one night and it was just delightful. The last day (or was it the day before that?) we ‘followed the crowd” down a leafy lane off the main street and found “The Golden Orb Bookshop and Café”.   What a delight that was. I had the nicest seafood crepe I think I have ever eaten. A well kept locals “secret meeting place” methinks, as there seemed to be a lot of locals there. Not much in the way of books I have to say, but the food and the atmosphere were first class.

This is all you see from the street, but follow those in the know down this path to a wonderful eatery. Locals well kept secret I reckon.
The large model of the Endeavour which is in the Dining Room at the South Pacific Resort.

We tried both bakeries. I preferred the rolls at one and the pies at the other. Often we would collect some rolls or a pie and head out to one of the many picnic areas for our lunch. Our Resort was one of many who offered to pack a picnic for you – and while that would have been nice we felt that at $26 per person it was a bit over the top. So, while it may have been nice to have a flask and coffee we were content to have a cold drink and head back later for a “proper” coffee/tea. I always carry a small knife in my luggage when I travel. So, we bought butter, cheese, ham and tomato and could easily make a picnic with our fresh crusty rolls. There were lots of places we could go and soak in the scene and the atmosphere to enjoy our lunch.

The second Supermarket ahs a bakery and the Post Office in the same building. It also loans you a reuseable shopping bag and asks that it not leave the island.
One of our favourite places to eat - Hilli Restaurant - with Guave Gallery next door..

One of my favourite picnic places was at Anson Bay – or more specifically on the cliff above Anson Bay.  This is just one of the most beautiful places you could see. I am afraid my photos do not do it justice. We saw one of the Norfolk Island Green Parrots while we were eating lunch. I grabbed my camera and went after it as it flittered around. I got a couple of shots, but neither is very clear so I won’t include it. My memory of it is crystal clear though.  I do have a photo of the one in the box at the Discovery Centre so you can at least see what it looks like.

Perfect place for a picnic - the cliff above Anson Bay
This green parrot (as seen in the Discovery Centre) is only found in one section of Norfolk Island.

The day we went to Emily Bay the pigeons and sparrows came as soon as we produced our rolls – but so too did the ducks. I have never seen wild ducks swim in the ocean before and on a beach, but there they were.  There was quite a crowd of them and I have some photos of firstly them waiting patiently while Anne-Maree and Lorraine were eating and later of being fed.

The night of Anne-Maree’s birthday we went to La Peruse Restaurant, which is part of Paradise Resort, and sat in one of the rotunda they have on the verandah. The night was beautiful, not too hot, service was great, the meal was superb and the wine exceptional. It truly was a night to remember.  However shortly after 8pm we realised we were the only ones left in the place and that the staff were waiting for us to leave so they could lock up and go home. So we went home and had a nightcap or two and watched a few episodes of “Rizzoli and Isles” final season!

Our last night we had dinner at Mariah’s which is on the hill with spectacular views. Trouble was we had gone first to Emily Bay to see the sunset with the Lone Pine silhouetted against it. By the time we got to Mariah’s it was quite dark, but more disappointing was that it had started to rain so they had pulled the blinds, so we did not get to enjoy the view.  Never mind, the meal was fantastic and a fitting end to our wonderful time on Norfolk. In any case when you see the photo's of the sunset I am sure you will agree it was worth it! (Had a hard time choosing 2 from the couple of dozen I took - hope you like them.) 

Sunset at Emily Bay with Lone Pine standing guard.
Lone Pine siloetted against the sunset over Emily Bay

I don’t think it is any wonder that despite doing lots of walking I did not lose any weight. Mind you I don’t think I put any on either so I guess that is a plus.